How to Clean Gutters and Check Downspouts Safely

Gutters have one job: catch the water coming off your roof and carry it far enough away that it doesn’t end up in your basement. In the St. Louis area, with mature oaks, maples and sweetgums dropping leaves and seed pods every fall, gutters can clog in a matter of weeks. Clogged gutters overflow against the fascia, soak the ground along the foundation and, in winter, help build ice dams at the roof edge. Cleaning them at least twice a year, typically late spring and again after the leaves drop in November, prevents a long list of expensive problems. This guide focuses on doing it safely, because the ladder is the real hazard here.

Difficulty: Beginner (single-story) to intermediate (two-story) · Time: 2–4 hours

Tools and materials

Extension ladder rated for your weight plus tools (Type I or IA), tall enough to extend about 3 feet above the gutter
Ladder standoff (stabilizer) that rests on the roof or wall instead of the gutter
Ladder leveler or leg extensions for uneven ground
Work gloves with good grip (gutter debris hides sharp screws and metal edges)
Safety glasses
Plastic gutter scoop or a small trowel
Bucket with an S-hook, or a tarp on the ground below
Garden hose with a spray nozzle
Plumber’s snake or downspout auger for stubborn clogs
Downspout extensions or splash blocks
Gutter sealant and a few gutter screws or hanger screws for small repairs
A helper on the ground

Ladder safety first

Falls from ladders send thousands of people to emergency rooms every year, and gutter cleaning is a classic way it happens. Follow these rules every time:

Set it on firm, level ground. Use a leveler on slopes. Never set a ladder on soft mulch, ice or a wet deck.
Use the 4-to-1 rule. For every 4 feet of height to the top support point, move the base 1 foot out from the wall.
Use a standoff. Leaning a ladder on an aluminum gutter can crush it and lets the ladder slide sideways. A standoff spans the gutter and rests on the wall or roof.
Keep three points of contact. Two feet and a hand on the ladder at all times. Carry tools on a belt or hook the bucket to a rung.
Don’t overreach. Keep your belt buckle between the rails. Climb down and move the ladder instead of leaning out.
Watch for power lines. Look up before you raise the ladder, and keep aluminum ladders well clear of the service drop to the house. Use a fiberglass ladder near any wiring.
Stay off a wet or windy day. Wet shingles and gusts make everything harder.

If your home is two stories or the ground around it is steep, this is a reasonable job to hire out. There’s no shame in staying on the ground.

Step-by-step

Start near a downspout. Set up so you work away from the downspout outlet. That way you aren’t pushing debris into it.
Scoop out the debris. Remove leaves, seed pods and shingle grit by hand or with a plastic scoop, dropping it into a bucket or onto a tarp. Wet debris is easier to scoop than dry. Move the ladder every few feet rather than reaching.
Check the downspout opening. Clear any packed leaves from the outlet hole in the gutter. A leaf strainer basket here can help.
Flush the gutter. Run the hose from the far end toward the downspout. Watch how the water moves. It should flow steadily toward the outlet. Standing water means a section has sagged and lost its slope (gutters should fall about 1/4 inch for every 10 feet of run toward the downspout).
Clear the downspout. Feed the hose up from the bottom or down from the top. If water backs up, tap along the downspout to find the clog and work it loose with a plumber’s snake. Many clogs sit at the elbows.
Look for leaks and loose spots. With the water running, have your helper watch for drips at seams and end caps. Seal small leaks with gutter sealant on a dry surface. Tighten or replace loose hangers so the gutter is held firmly against the fascia.
Extend the downspouts. This is the most overlooked step. Every downspout should discharge at least 4 to 6 feet away from the foundation, onto ground that slopes away from the house. Short elbows that dump water right at the corner are a leading cause of wet basements and foundation cracks in this area’s clay soils. Add a downspout extension, a splash block or a buried drain line that daylights well away from the house.

Signs of fascia and roof-edge damage

While you’re up there, take a close look at the board the gutter hangs on. Watch for:

Paint peeling or wood darkening behind the gutter
Wood that is soft when pressed with a screwdriver, or hangers that won’t hold
A gutter pulling away from the house or sagging between hangers
Water stains on the soffit below, or signs of animals getting into the eaves
Shingle edges that are curled, cracked or missing, or heavy granule buildup in the gutter, which can point to an aging roof

Mistakes to avoid

Leaning the ladder on the gutter itself.
Using a pressure washer from the ground or on the roof; it blasts debris under shingles and can damage gutters.
Forgetting the downspouts. A clean gutter with a clogged downspout still overflows.
Walking on the roof to reach gutters. Leave roof work to people with fall protection.

When to call a pro

Call for help if your home is two stories or more, sits on a steep lot, or if you find:

Rotted fascia or soffit boards
Gutters that sag, leak at multiple seams or have lost their slope
Undersized gutters that overflow in heavy rain even when clean
Water in the basement despite clean gutters and extended downspouts

Our team installs seamless gutters and gutter guards that cut down on cleaning, and repairs rotted fascia and soffit as part of our exterior services. If you spot shingle damage while you’re up there, we can take a look at the roof too.

Rather have it done for you? RossBuilt Construction serves the St. Louis metro. Request a free estimate or call 636-380-2574.